Guatemala (part 1)

Arrived in beautiful Antigua on 14th September...

... the day before Guatemala celebrates its independence from Spain. For once, being British, I didn't have to keep a low profile.

It's an active volcanic region. Not sure what the Spanish for "run for the hills" is. Probably "run away from the hills" would be better anyway.

After four buses, two boats, then two tuk-tuks, I arrived at San Marcos on Lake Atitlan. It's only 80km but it took most of the day. I'm getting used to that. Funny how I sulk in London if I have to get two buses to meet anyone.

It's a coffee and cocoa growing region which American/European new age types claim has special energy. You can do various courses there e.g. "using chocolate for spiritual purposes... as the ancient sacred teacher it is". We're not talking Dairy Milk here - this is the really expensive, bitter stuff people only pretend they like.

Took a couple of buses into the western highlands, to Quetzaltenango (Xela). They love a nice parade here. Didn't really get to the bottom of what this one was for. Great fun though.

Went for a hike to a sacred Mayan lake in a volcanic crater. At one point I was accompanied by twenty kids laughing and shouting, blond hair and blue eyes being something of a rarity around here. Would have made a great photo but the guidebook advises against taking pictures of indigenous kids following some unfortunate misunderstandings. Not wanting to end up on the business end of a machete, you'll have use your imagination.

 

Friday is market day in the small village of San Francisco el Alto, just outside of Xela.

Not sure what's food and what are pets in this one. Perhaps safest to eat everything.

And finally for now the obligatory photo showing why the chicken bus gets its name.

This is actually two chickens tied together at the feet. Moments later, as the bus went over a big hump, they made a bid for freedom. Pandemonium! Alas, they didn't get very far. Poor teamwork.

Honduras

Took a bus from Nicaragua to Lake Yojoa in Honduras bypassing the capital, Tegucigalpa, due to it being difficult to pronounce.

The lake is a nature reserve and a haven for bird life. Hired a guide and took a row boat out for the morning.

Spanish Moss - it´s not moss and it´s not spanish, apparently:

Finally got my photo of a hummingbird. I cheated and sat by a feeder in the garden at the hostel. She´s a rufous-tailed hummingbird.

Lots of good hiking around the lake, too. Some impressive waterfalls.

One hike turned into a mushroom spotting expedition.

Took a bus to Copan Ruinas, on the border with Guatemela, for my first taste of Mayan archeology. The site flourished in the eight century AD with 20,000 inhabitants. Very impressive.

The Maya revered the Quetzal and the Scarlet Macaw.

 

Kings were named after them and they were represented in the architecture.

Hondurans are the friendliest and most heavily armed people I´ve met so far.

Guatemala next...



Nicaragua

Started my visit to Nicaragua in the old colonial city of Granada. Stayed at a family run hospidaje near the town square. Such friendly people.

Ate the local specialty called vigaron which is steamed yucca and cabbage salad topped with chicharron, which are like enormous pork scratchings.

Not bad, although I'm usually drunk when I eat that kind of thing.

Next stop was Managua to attend Spanish school. Stayed with a lovely 70 year old Nicaraguan lady whose family are all in the USA. Her youngest son was born the same year as me. She spoiled me rotten.

Once fluent, took a trip to La Isla de Ometepe. Quite a journey to the hostel from Managua - taxi, bus, taxi, boat, bus, bus, trek. Took all day. Worth it though. Amazing place formed by two volcanoes poking out of a lake, bridge of lava between. Climbed one of them.

Saw howler monkeys and white faced monkeys. They will not sit still for a photo though, uncooperative gits.

Back to Managua for a night before heading to Las Islas del Maiz (Corn Islands) in the Caribbean. Most people fly but thought I'd do it the old fashioned (cheaper) way which requires a seven hour chicken bus ride until the road runs out, a two hour panga (river boat) ride to the coast, then a night in a town called Bluefields, which the Lonely Planet describes thus:

"Bluefields... named after the 17th century Dutch pirate Blewfeldt... with its slow pace, ready smiles, decayed tropical charm and slightly sketchy underbelly... "

"Where do I sign?" I thought.

Up early the next morning for the six hour sea crossing to the islands.

Spent three days relaxing and snorkeling (eagle rays, sting rays, nurse sharks, coral and tropical fish) then took an overnight berth on a cargo ship (mainly lobster).

My bunk was the bottom right in the photo. Views of the night sky and the Caribbean sea. Dead calm. Amazing.

Woke at dawn and we were already on the river.

Unfortunately, the captain stopped to do some salvage work so hailed a passing dugout and abseiled down a chain. Made the Managua bus with ten minutes to spare. Epic journey.

Honduras next...