There's a church in San Juan Chamula (near San Cristobal) which was the most interesting experience of the whole trip. A mixture of indigenous and catholic beliefs has led to some astonishing scenes inside. The floor is carpeted with pine needles - the locals kneel at the altars chanting, burning incense and sacrificing chickens. Absolutely bonkers.
The photo above is a stock photo. Tourists are strictly forbidden from taking photos. A sign warns "those that disrespec (sic) the rules will be punished". That said, they were incredibly welcoming.
The food was the highlight in Mexico. I particularly liked the chapulines (fried crickets).
I preferred the original spicy flavour but they come in several varieties (salt & vinegar, cheese & onion etc.).
Pork scratching anyone?
I spent most of my time in Oaxaca in the west. There's a beautiful nature reserve just outside Oaxaca City with a "frozen" waterfall of mineral deposits and infinity pools filled by natural springs.
I spent some time getting to know a micro credit charity that operates in rural Oaxaca. It's a worldwide movement to provide interest free loans to women to help them start businesses e.g. weaving.
The stories were incredible e.g. one lady's husband died leaving her with a young daughter. The husband's family started to strip the assets from the family home. Apparently she was lucky not to be on the street. She needed a loan to replace the roof (which they dismantled) so she could continue to trade.
I went for a great hike in a non touristy area and met a group of Mexicans half way with shotguns. I asked them what they were hunting. "We're not hunting, we're picking flowers" they said. Later on I saw the clear "no hunting allowed" sign.
That's an agave cactus in the foreground. It's used to make mezcal (Oaxacan tequila).
The culmination of the whole trip was the Dia de los Muertos (Day of the Dead) celebrations. It's an indigenous tradition that pre dates the Spanish, although they did move the date to coincide with the catholic calendar.
People welcome back the souls of departed loved ones. Altars are decorated with their favourite food and drinks and they are remembered fondly. It's a celebration of life. I visited Xoxo cemetery.
The stock photo above doesn't do justice to the heroic amounts of mezcal being drank there. The people were incredibly welcoming, inviting visitors to share drinks with them. I visited one grave with a Canadian, an Indian, an American, and an Australian. The Mexican family were delighted.
Oaxaca City is taken over by the theme, too.
So that's Central America over. Back in the UK now. Starting to arrange Nepal...
